Our last two days in Phnom Penh (part 1) were filled with both culture and history via music and the Cambodia Living Arts Center. We were welcomed by traditional Cambodian dance originating hundreds of years ago. The dancers were around the age of our students and some even spoke great English. Our interpreter explained all the different dance styles as the dancers cheerfully demonstrated a handful of the more than 5,400 dance moves associated with the traditional expressions. We witnessed dances about a princess yearning for a peacock, monkey soldiers and their monkey king, and even a modern folk dance that was gleeful and involved partners banging coconuts together as they moved around the floor. A few of us were invited to don some traditional clothing, and the rest of us joined in the fun and learned a few of the body contortions used to tell a story of a seed and its journey to a fruit-producing plant. Our group did its best to keep in step with the pros, but we leaders (Lisa and Jordan) couldn’t, though a few of the students put us to shame and were invited back to join in the dance troupe…contingent on learning the 5,400 moves and a bit more Khmer!

After the dancing, we were treated to the playing of the Chapai by a master Chapai-er who taught us some Khmer, led us in a few songs, and then mesmerized us with songs a bit more complicated. It was incredible to hear the traditional instruments and songs that have survived through the ages.

That afternoon, we took a bus out to Arn Chorn-Pond’s house. Arn has an incredible story. He was a boy whose family was taken and slaughtered by the Khmer Rouge, but he was saved at age 9 because he was able to quickly learn the flute and play beautiful songs that were broadcast over the killing fields to drown out the sounds of the massacre happening each day (the site of which we visited the day before). Towards the end of the Pol Pot (the Khmer Rouge leader’s) regime, Arn was made a child soldier before escaping to the Thailand border and ultimately being adopted by an American reverend and moving to New Hampshire. Several years ago, Arn founded CLA as a way to preserve the traditional arts that were part of the history Pol Pot was trying to erase. Arn explained to us that there is one particular instrument that only two people who survived the genocide know how to play. Arn is attempting to preserve and revitalize the performing arts culture of Cambodia, and he’s also trying to spread it. A few years ago, with the help and investment of some major rock stars, including Peter Gabriel and Tracy Chapman, he was able to buy a bus that now tours all over the country, playing for folks all over Cambodia, including the very remote villages. Some of these villages, Arn says, have never heard music like this before. The bus has gained popularity and they have been invited to play in places across Europe and the United States, including a sold-out performance at Lincoln Center in New York City.

A few of the members of this Magic Bus were staying at Arn’s house and they gave us an incredible performance, which we listened to as we watched the sun slowly disappear over the Cambodian plain in a dance of mellow yellows, oranges, and pinks. It was such an incredible evening listening to Arn’s stories and messages of hope and perseverance. Visiting CLA was an awesome experience and we all agreed we could have stayed and listened to Arn and his stories for many hours more.

Friday morning, we took a long bus ride up to Battambang, known for being the country’s principal rice growing city. Battambang has many charming qualities and fun things to do. Yesterday we did a workshop with the Phare Circus School. Before our visit to the circus school’s open house, we took a ride on the infamous and endangered bamboo trains. These simple, motorized “handcars” were originally designed to move locals up and down the national railway tracks, but also to be quickly disassembled when the big trains came barreling down the tracks. The national rarely, if ever, operates here anymore.

After our ride, we had a beautiful lunch and headed over to the Phare Circus School to walk through their classrooms and observe their amazing talents as graphic designers, photographers, animators, painters, and more — these students create some really amazing things. After we played with the students, it was time for an exhibition circus show. The performers did everything from clowning bits to acrobatics, complete with flips through a burning hoop! The burning hoop reminded us that it was Independence Day back home, so we rushed off to satiate our appetites for all things American at the Green Mango. Here we met Chef Ryana, and not only did she feed us some good ole ‘Merican cooking, but she also told us about the Green Mango NGO and how they are training girls from the surrounding villages to be literate, as well as teaching them how to cook in a commercial kitchen. The girls are put through an 18-month program and taught everything they need to know to fill the ever empty hospitality positions needed throughout the country. After dinner, we were treated to an outstanding fireworks (roman candles) display.

Today we spent most of our time on a bike ride through the many villages surrounding Battambang. We visited small family homes, where families are manufacturing and producing many different food items including banana snacks, rice paper, and fish paste. We also visited the local killing fields and walked respectfully around the stupa, thinking about the recent, dark history of the country.

The heat was intense today and everyone drank nearly 4 liters of water. We were all so hot and sweaty, some AC and cold shower time was surely needed. We’re all exhausted from the last few days, so we called it an early evening after an amazing, local meal found by one of the students. We’re excited to meet with more NGOs this week and we look forward to finding out what our projects will look like. We’re so glad to continue our exciting and eye-opening adventure!

– Lisa & Jordan